Thursday, October 2, 2014

The white Cliffs of Rügen


Rügen is the biggest German island, and a popular tourist destination for domestic as well as international travellers (a.k.a. busloads of Asians...). From endless sandy beaches to white chalk cliffs, from ocean to lagoons, from bubbly seaside resorts to sleepy fishing villages, the island has a lot to offer.

Our first stop was Binz, a popular seaside resort. We walked along the beach and strolled through this lovely town with its intriguing resort architecture of the 19th and early 20th century.



A few clicks further North we were delivered a harsh contrast to the playful resort architecture and received another lesson in history. We entered Prora, a product of Nazi-German megalomania, built in the mid 30's to provide an affordable and organised leisure time for up to twenty-thousand holidaymakers, a.k.a Kraft durch Freude (Strength through joy).


A colossal architectural disaster with eight identical buildings over a stretch of 4.5km, a mere 150m away from a beautiful beach. Well built obviously and seemingly indestructible, it is not that it hadn't been tried before to blow up, and tear down this concrete cluster of ugliness.



Today some of the complexes are being renovated and reactivated, two buildings house a youth hostel, and an art center, but the builders couldn't change the shape. It will remain a sore spot in the midst of a beautiful landscape.


The by far best part of Rügen are the cliffs in the North East of the island. They aren't easily accessible, and hence a splendid destination for those seeking solitude. We parked our car in Lohme, a sleepy fisher town.


First we followed a steep and slippery trail downhills through the beech forest, mildly alarmed by the signs warning that it is a challenging trail. The signs were right. And the challenge didn't end at the beach. A small pebble beach provided just enough distance between the ocean and the cliff. On a windy day the beach would likely become impassable but the sea was calm today. And it wasn't easy either, as the traveler will need to balance over countless slippery rocks.




The hike might occasionally get interrupted by combing the beach and building pebble towers. Finally one arrives at the blindingly white chalk cliffs, and stands breathless (not only caused by the hike, but in awe), taking in the scenery and as many pictures as possible.

The white Cliffs of Rügen

The exercise however didn't end here. After an excessive photo session one still needs to climb up the cliff. A mere 412 steps of a slippery wooden staircase which has been there forever (and is being maintained and renewed regularly).


Given that we are not the fittest people under the sun, we felt that we actually did quite well during the ascent, and we can proudly report that we even overtook folks younger than we. On top it was only two miles back over a forest trail, a relaxed walk back to our parking spot in Lohme. And overall we'd say that despite the difficult terrain the hike was well worth the effort.


We travelled 170km today, and hiked about 12km.
Rügen Island - Source: Wikipedia

16 comments:

  1. What a wintery sea! Looks frigid.

    The Nazi building is horrific looking. I wonder why it's not been taken down- anything can be destroyed. The architecture in the 5th photo is more ornate than what my idea of German design is of that era. I see some other influence but can't quite figure it out yet.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Martha, the Baltic Ocean is still warmer than the Pacific, however it can get cold in this neck of the woods. I have seen pictures from a frozen sea.
      The Russians had tried taking it down but they weren't good at it. It seems unreasonably expensive to destroy those buildings and move away the debris.

      I had the same feeling about the ornate of the buildings and found out it was supposedly Norwegian and Viking influence.

      Delete
  2. We found Prora quite impressive; not really for the architecture but the vision behind it. One has to have a very good imagination to picture the entire plans for this huge project. On one hand I actually think it was some good cause behind it: give people some cheap vacation. But the bigger picture was rather bad, no doubt about that. We specifically liked the museum part where visitors can see the original furnished rooms. Some of the exhibits from NVA reminded us of our childhood in GDR like the TV setting etc.

    Binz is a lovely small town, especially the illuminated pier in the dark. And not to mention the rough nature around some of the beaches close to the chalk cliffs. Simply stunning :-).

    Another wonderful post!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I agree yet it was a different time .... I see some similarities to GDR; vacation was cheap and the vacations homes often weren't nicer than it would have been in Prora. Otherwise only few people could have afford such things. But with this majority of kids went to camps during school break, families could go on vacation (as long you could get a spot) etc. I grew up with such funded vacations, uncostly childcare etc and it wasn't that bad at all. Sure ist was propaganda but we had to live with that and made the best of this situation. That might seem strange to residents of the former western Germany, I know :-). So, enough of political discussion :-).

      Delete
    2. Yvonne, I agree that some of the ideas were good, especially when it comes to childcare close to the workplace.

      No funded holidays in Western Germany, what a weird concept, ts ;-)

      It would be interesting to compare notes from our childhood, though. For me as one of the lesser privileged "Wessie" kids, it was vacationing at our relatives' place (Ostfriesland), or staying at home... Talk about a rock and a hard place.

      Delete
  3. When you mentioned 'disaster' I wondered if the "great Man" might have had a direct hand in the design of Prora. He did fancy himself as an architect ( among other things). Speer wasn't exactly a model of lightness and whimsy either. Happily: So much of the rest of Germany we see through your pictures is wonderful and a treat to see for this Canuck.I wish I could visit.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Clemenz Klotz was the designer, ironically his last name being Klotz means block. He was chosen by Albert Speer, Hitler's chief architect. I am sure that the man himself had a saying in the final approval of the project.

      However, I am glad that Germany also has some different architecture to offer, and not all is based on pseudo ideologic ideas.

      Delete
  4. The sea shots remind me of a Tofino. Beautiful pictures!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oh Dar, Tofino is so much more beautiful, believe me.

      Delete
  5. Quite a hike plus the steps. So worth it for views of the cliffs, beautiful photographs.

    A shame about the concrete monstrosities, at least they are starting to put them to use again.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You betcha, Brandy. We surprised ourselves that day with our physical abilities ;-)

      Delete
  6. Ich war dreimal auf der Insel (1994, 1995 und 2000) und ich hoffe, dass ich diese schoene Insel noch einmal besuchen kann. Ich bin jedesmal mit dem Motorrad im Mai auf der Insel gewesen und freute mich immer ueber die Rapsfelder in voller Bluete. Es sah oft so aus als wenn der Raps bis in den Himmel wuchs.

    Schoen, dass ihr nun den Norden Deutschland abgrast :-) Kreis Cuxhaven ist auch sehr schoen :-) Habe immer gern Urlaub in DE gemacht, denn es ist auch ein schoenes Land.

    Lg Mecki

    LG Mecki

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Stimmt Mecki, Deutschland ist wirklich wunderschön. Man lernt es erst richtig schätzen, wenn man mal weg war...

      Delete
    2. ja sehe ich auch so. Gehe naechstes Jahr im Mai zurueck nach DE :-)

      Delete
    3. Echt jetzt, Mecki? Warum? Erzähl doch mal (email to sonja dot mager at shaw dot ca)

      Delete